I have a huge review to write about my tour around Snaefellsnes Peninsula in Iceland and the wonderful clearing of a blizzard to make way for a gorgeous extended sunset. On that day, I realized checking the weather forecast was pointless. The only good strategy is to take Iceland on its own terms.
I’m glad I learned that, because my story about the Snaefellsnes tour can wait. Right now, I’m in the middle of the worst storm to hit Iceland in 25 years.
I’m huddled in my beautiful apartment in Reykjavik, made of sturdy wood, which I’m thankful for because the building has shaken a few times.
Once, earlier in the afternoon, I went out to see the source of a loud crash on the side of the house. I noticed that one of the three-foot dagger icicles hanging off the roof had shattered all over the steps. Two more remained, so I hustled up those steps with amazing speed to get back inside. (Update: The icicles are gone!)
Logging on to the Iceland weather forecast, I noticed the storm seemed to cover most of the country with high wind speeds. I wondered how high, so I typed in “76 km/h to mph,” because that is the sustained wind speed in downtown Reykjavik right now.
About 50mph. Fast, for sustained wind. I checked the news.
The Hurricane and the Hot Dog Stand
Apparently there is a hurricane hitting Iceland, for all intents and purposes. The whole country. Boats in the harbor are rocking and rolling, and one hot dog stand remained open tonight, the great Bæjerins Beztu Pylsur that I mentioned in my last post. Otherwise, the city is closed and the storm is on.
This is the second gale-force storm in three days. On Friday, my planned trip to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon was cancelled due to a similarly terrible storm in that area.
Prior to that, Reykjavik broke its December snowfall record in the first three days of December. Photo evidence here:
Most of the snow in that beautiful park is now gone. I’ll edit this post with gale-storm aftermath photos tomorrow. For now, I’m too afraid to go outside. Hundreds of pounds of snow just slid off the roof onto the street, barely missing a car. Snow really does groan when it slides off a roof en glacial masse, in case you were wondering.
What is up with all this weird weather?
Iceland, if you have a message for me, I am hearing you. Speak up!
Wonderful, magical, beautiful, fierce. Winter is here.